I've never seen a country so alive

He stole the show

For my first lucha libre night, I'd bought a golden mask and I fully intended to shout louder than everyone else. During the second bout, a wrestler climbed down from the ring, pushed through the crowd and planted himself right in front of us. He lifted Yuuki up like a trophy, and the whole arena started chanting "El Rey Gato"! I promise you he loved every second of it. For the rest of the night, I held his bag while he signed autographs with his paw.

Face to face on the sand

At sunset, the volunteers in Mazunte handed each of us a baby turtle to guide down to the waves. Mine, no bigger than a cookie, stopped before reaching the sea and stared at me. Moved by the moment, I stared right back. Yuuki lay down flat on his belly beside her, nose to nose, without blinking once. Nobody moved for a whole minute. Then she turned her head toward the sea and scurried off at full speed, as if she'd suddenly remembered a very important appointment!

One wave for two

On Carrizalillo beach, the waves are gentle in the morning, so I booked my first lesson at dawn. After an hour of wipeouts, I finally felt the board glide on its own. I stood up, arms out, the sun at my back, without a single wobble! That's when Yuuki, clinging to the nose of the board, shook himself off all at once, and I lost my balance. We tumbled into the foam together. In the instructor's photo, all you can see is his tail sticking out, proud as a flag.

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